Ok, so let’s get straight to the point here: We experienced Carnival….and…I lovvved Brazil.
On the first day, I woke up in the wee hours of the morning to film the ship pulling into the city of Salvador. Unfortunately this was way too early for me to be awake (around 5:30 or so), but I still hung out of the front dock with many others and caught our first glimpses of the wonderful city.
Our first adventure was to the local market, which was about a fifteen minute walk from the ship. This huge building is a cross between a flea market and a mall. Tons of Brazilians selling clothes, crafts, musical instruments, music, food, and tons of other things inhabit this strange building along with the outside perimeter. It was crowded, noisy, hectic, yet fun. Sellers would pull you into the booths or flash souvenirs in your face in order to get your attention, though I did find this rather annoying after awhile. Plus most of the stuff they were selling wasn’t that great anyways.
Outside, surrounding the perimeter of the market, older women in colorful dresses yanked on your arms in order to get you to stop and have them “bless your money.” One fellow SAS girl apparently brought out a hundred dollar bill for these nice, friendly women to bless, and was rather pissed off when the woman stole the bill from her hand and would only give her four dollars back…stupid people on this ship I tell you.
Later that day, me, Matt, Eric, Steph, and Dorothy rode up the high elevator that took us to the main city of Salvador. Some of the streets were already filled with people dancing as marching bands and different Brazilian ensembles played music. This area of the city looks completely different as the sun goes down. While walking back to the ship, we crossed hundreds of people yelling out the windows of their cars in traffic, others were packing the buses to the max--some guys were completely decked out in drag and crazy makeup, and other Brazilians were squirting water guns at all of us…all of these people were, of course, on their way to tonight’s Carnival.
Skip ahead to our first night in the main city. About twelve or so of us formed a large group, paired off, and decided to experience our first nightly Carnival…but we had to eat first, and someone earlier had recommended a fine dining place to two girls in our group.
Rain was pouring as we rode up the elevator, and then marched through the streets, looking for this restaurant. Music was playing EVERYWHERE. People were darting from every which direction (all of the roads in the city are closed off during Carnival, so fortunately there were no cars), and through this entire hectic environment, one man was nice enough to help us find this restaurant. Now don’t get me wrong, I knew that he’d probably want a couple of bucks for taking us on this ten minute walk, but I wasn’t expecting that he’d pull a knife on our friend Ben (from Pittsburgh) and demand money once we got there like he did. Ben took one for the group and paid him, so the guy luckily didn’t bother us or hire some crazy Brazilian street gang to take us down or something.
Anyways, the name of the restaurant is translated to Paradise Garden, and we ate in the back garden underneath a giant cover with some suave saxophonist playing up on stage. We split into two groups and paired off (since the meals were so big). My roommate Matt and I split an incredibly delicious shrimp dish that was huge. My friend Jess, who was also sitting at our table, ordered a fruit salad ice cream dish, and I must tell you that I was amazed at the wonderful vanilla flavor contained in this dessert.
The waiter didn’t speak English…actually hardly anybody we ran into in Brazil spoke English, so I definitely got a crash course in Portuguese for five days (I really wish that Semester at Sea would teach us more about each language before going into each port). Anyways, we communicated fine with hand gestures, including the “thumbs up,” which literally works everywhere.
After dinner, we went out to one of the Carnival routes; this one was considered the more “traditional carnival,” and as a music lover, I must admit it was mind-blowing.
Weird marching bands in costume, guys in crazy makeup, girls in colorful outfits dancing everywhere, and pounding percussion made up this exciting, yet constrained environment. Think of a scene from Moulin Rouge or Velvet Goldmine…that’s what these people were dressed like. Our group then took a rest and sat around a table and had a few drinks while playing a game, but my friend Eric and I decided to explore and catch as much music as possible with a couple other girls I didn’t know.
After the traditional Carnival area, the group split up into two. Half went out to the main Carnival route (Ciruito Osmar – Campo Grande to Avenida), while the other half went back to the ship. I decided to go back, since I had been up really early and honestly didn’t feel too well. We had an incredibly difficult time getting a taxi though; there were seven of us and were willing to split up, but it was hard to find someone who could understand that our final destination was “Pier 6…the ship.”
The next day a few of us met up for lunch onboard the ship (hamburger and fries, which was quite different from our regular meals), and then set off to find more attractions around the city. We actually roamed the upper level of Salvador through most of the day, then went back to the ship to freshen up.
That night a few of us decided to go off to the Farol Da Barra Beach Carnival route. This was on the other side of the city, so the cab ride was unbelievably long. Me, Mark, Matt, Dorothy, Matt (from Lewisburg, PA), Noopur, and Steph all ventured out along the street near a beach to catch this Carnival atmosphere. The Carnival parades consist of these floats called blocos. Basically, a big truck pulls them along, and they’re stages with all the musicians, dancers, lights, and HUGE soundsystems, and they travel VERY slowly, parade-style along a specific route, and they stop along the way to play mini-concerts.
People were telling us that this Carnival unit was hectic, dangerous, and pretty wild, but we experienced the exact opposite. We were near the beginning of the route, so it wasn’t TOO crowded, and proved to be enough room for us to dance, drink, and have fun.. This area also proved to be very safe. We stayed for over three hours and I was literally sweating like a madman by the end of it. All of the music was wonderful, even though every band pretty much sounded the same. I thought I’d be really tired after all the moving and dancing, but honestly I could have went for another few hours at least. We also ran into one or two Brazilians that spoke English and had some sweet conversations. If you were wondering, I definitely loved listening to the Portuguese language. It’s obviously very similar to Spanish, though I think it’s much more rich.
On our way home, we successfully fit all seven of us into a tiny taxi, and honestly, times like these I really wish I had a camera with me (but we were instructed not to bring digital cameras or anything expensive out at night). By the time I got back to my cabin, I slept like a baby.
The next day was filled with more exploring and some shopping (I bought a CD full of Carnival music). That night, me, Eric, Mark, Steph, Noopur, and Kate all went out on the town and even tried some street food. The food not only smelled appetizing, but was scrumptious as well (and yes, I made sure that I didn’t drink any water and/or eat any lettuce). We hung out around the low-key Carnival area where we played some card games, but later decided to travel towards the really crazy section of the city for awhile. Very crowded. I definitely have a new found idea of personal space.
My next day in Brazil was quite different, because I signed up for an SAS trip to the small town of Cachoeira. We took a motor coach out of Salvador, into the countryside of Brazil where we saw hillsides filled with thousands of thousands of favelas (small houses/Brazilian slums) and tons of farming land.
We first stopped at a small town where we roamed the empty streets (almost everyone was in Salvador for Carnival) and interacted with some of the local children (who were really friendly). We then stopped at a MTS camp, where we tried out some homemade chocolate/other desserts, and explored the landscapes surrounding the camp.
Next was lunch, which was about 30 minutes away, and was held at this hotel that used to be a monastery or something like that. The lunch was incredible, as a few of us shared our meals in order to try out all of the food. The beef, fish, and chicken were all fabulous, and the side dishes were exquisite as well. After lunch, we roamed the town of Cachoeira, then boarded the bus for the 2-hour trip back to Salvador. The 2-hour nap = delightful.
I (like many of us) was very tired after this adventurous day around the Brazilian countryside, BUT it was also the last night of Carnival! We planned to travel out to the beach Carnival again. About 13 of us met in the ship’s lobby, and we had to take three separate taxicabs in order to make it out to the beach area.
This was BY FAR the greatest night of the trip so far, and also one of the most fun nights of recent memory.
Two words: Fatboy Slim. He had his own bloco, which was one of the reasons we decided to go to this Carnival section. We stood in the same spot as we did the other night (right in front of this really cool-looking light house) and saw about 8 or so blocos before I started hearing the sounds of a DJ. Fatboy Slim and his crew were awesome, and entertained us for about 15 while spinning his tracks. Now around this time I had this brilliant idea: “hey guys, let’s follow the bloco all the way up the route!” Unfortunately the only other person who felt my enthusiasm was Mark, so we both went along with Fatboy Slim, dancing our asses off (trust me, I was definitely not drunk or anything, or else I probably would have fallen over). It was literally an rave outside in the open.
As the route went further along, the crowds began to grow, and it definitely got MUCH more chaotic. Within 20 minutes I was groped by at least two younger Brazilian women (which was definitely interesting), I was hit on by these two good-looking younger guys who actually spoke English and were really nice, and experienced at least three people violently stuffing their hands inside my pockets in hopes of finding some money (but luckily I wasn’t carrying any in those pockets…I know, I think ahead)…oh, remember what I was saying earlier about personal space?
We then decided that we should probably meet back up with the group, but what do you know, two of them found us. Two of our friends luckily pushed their way through the crowd and told us that everyone else in our group wanted to leave, but that they’d stay with us. We then had to push our way all the way back to the group in order to tell them that we’re staying, THEN we had to make our way another half mile to the toilets, THEN make our way ALL THE WAY back to the Fatboy Slim bloco. Seriously, where did all this energy come from?
At this point in the Carnival route, the sidewalks were packed with people. I literally had filthy garbage disgustingly covering the bottoms of my pants. The bloco’s strobe lights and green laser lights made the scene even more rave-like, but the amount of people stuffed onto the sidewalks grew ridiculous. The smell was horrendous (a mixture of urine and garbage, similar to other parts of Brazil) and I was probably covered in other people’s sweat (hardly anyone wears shirts around these parts). At one point the guy standing next to me punched some other passerby right in the face, and a fight almost broke out. As exciting as this was, we felt like we should probably begin to make our way back.
We walked off into the side streets where there was still tons of people selling food and souvenirs on the sidewalks. Parts of the streets were filled with tents and sleeping bags. We made our way ALL THE WAY back to where we were dropped off, took a taxi back to the ship, and made it back to my cabin a little after 2:30 in the morning…great night!
Our last day in Salvador was spent shopping some more. I bought a sweet pair of Capoeira pants (which are really comfortable), a Brazilian soccer (football) jersey, and another really cheap cd. I tried searching for possible presents for people at home, but couldn’t find anything that really caught my eye.
About ten of us ate our lunch on the top floor of the market area, and had an unbelievable meal. Two of us shared the fried steak, fried banana, rice, and French fries meal, and hopefully you’re noticing this trend of really, really good food everywhere we’ve gone. I hope it lasts.
There was also a guitar player jamming on stage at this large, market rooftop, and we requested “The Girl from Ipanema.” The significance of this song request is the fact that my roommate had started singing this song about a week beforehand, and THEN they sang it at the Brazil pre-port meeting on the ship, then by the time we entered Brazil, everyone was singing it. So when the guitarist started jamming the melody line along with his drum machine, you can imagine our enthusiasm.
At 11 o’clock we all went to Deck 6 and waved goodbye to Brazil. Good memories and fun times were definitely had. I learned some basic Portuguese and definitely got a sense of the extreme poverty prevalent throughout the town. The fact that these people who hardly have anything can all get together and celebrate life for a week is amazing and very inspirational. Though there’s still a lot of crime and poverty throughout the country, there are still many, many good people that will hopefully keep the celebration of life flowing.
Thanks for reading. Obviously, a lot more did happen in Brazil, and I definitely have more memories, but this was just a recap of events and such. I’ll be in Africa in a few days…