Ok, should we go now? Three lanes to cross. A couple cars race by. Now it’s changed to four lanes, because a rickshaw driver’s driving down the center line.
Three motorcyclists drive across the curb, narrowly missing my feet.
A rickshaw driver suddenly cuts off a bus. Should we go? YES! One of us starts rapidly running across the…NO LOOK OUT! A couple rickshaws appear out of nowhere!
Don’t stop, keep going! No turning back! This is insane.
2 MINUTES LATER
Look left. Quickly look right. Three of us are still in the exact same spot. Should we go now? Nope…a cow is trotting down the middle of the road. Whatever you do, DON’T harm the cow! Hindus in India DO NOT take kindly to cow-damage.
Nothing. Empty street now. Let’s go! Nevermind, 2 rickshaws rapidly ascending, but what the hell…we can dodge them. Let’s go for it! No one lives forever! We dart across the street, and almost, ALMOST get hit by at least two rickshaws. Luckily we make it to the center of the highway, but that’s only halfway…we still have half the opposing traffic to cross.
Crossing a busy street in India is obviously fun.
This is part one of my India experience. Enjoy!
The night before we entered India, a few of us were relaxing on the 7th deck, gazing out at the stars. My friend Natalie’s comment concerning India was “Ok guys, let’s say goodbye to personal space!” She was correct.
There are tons of distinct sights, smells, emotions, people, and stories that one experiences when visiting such a foreign country like India. I’m sure that every person on this ship either really loved or really hated India. Guess which category I fall in?
After docking in the city of Chennai and going through the extensive immigration/customs process, a big group of us took our first steps onto Indian soil…into the humid, thick, 100-degree India heat. Military officials swarmed our dock with really large guns. They set up fences that blocked the ship from any unwelcome guests, and the military officers had to check our ship ID, customs sheet, and immigration forms every time we left and entered the ship.
Our first destination was the Spencer Shopping Plaza in the center of Chennai. My friend Kyle and I decided to be rickshaw buddies. According the incredibly flawed map of Chennai we picked up on the ship, the plaza wasn’t too far away, so this bicycle driver ran up to us with hopes of driving us. We began bargaining with this driver because he had two seats empty on the back of his bike. We bargained him down to 100 rupees a person (44 rupees = 1 dollar), but instead of taking us to the shopping plaza, he drove us about ½ a mile down the road to the main dock gate, where a bunch of rickshaw drivers were waiting for us. We started arguing but it was no use…we agreed to pay bicycle driver 100 rupees…we were totally ripped off. We then had to make a deal with the rickshaw driver, and then argued with him the entire way to the shopping plaza, for he wanted to take us around the city and bring us to his friend’s store instead. This is not uncommon for most rickshaw drivers. Later on in the day, another rickshaw driver would only take us back to the ship if he brought us to a shop first, because he gets paid by the owner if he brings people over to shop.
A rickshaw drive in India is just as exciting as crossing a major intersection. The drivers drive where THEY want to, that means getting literally inches away from hitting cars, other rickshaws, buses, cows (yes, they’re everywhere), and people. The traffic patterns evidently permit anyone to pass anyone…even if there isn’t enough room to pass (somehow nobody usually gets killed on a regular basis).
Back to my story. We luckily made it straight to the shopping plaza, and after spending about 15 minutes in the music store while a cool employee helped me find some awesome India pop music, Kyle and I found our friends Mark, Dorothy, and Chad walking around the mall…obviously not everybody’s rickshaw driver took them straight to the mall, because we were still missing about 8 friends or so.
Before talking about our lunch, let me comment on some general things about India:
- It IS really dirty there. By the time we left, there was a couple centimeters of dirt covering the outside of the ship (and hopefully you remember me talking about the crew’s insane amounts of cleaning on this vessel). Just think about it…we were only in port for five days and it was THAT dirty, think about how much dirt and smog these people are inhaling on a daily basis.
- We were obviously told NOT to drink any water, but some bottled water is even risky (people apparently like filling up bottles in their bathtubs and such).
We couldn’t eat fresh fruits/vegetables (including salads), dairy products (sadly including milkshakes), or drink the local beer. Granted, I could eat whatever I want, but I didn’t want to take too many chances.
The only things that were 100% safe to drink were pop (soda for you non-Pittsburghers) or international beer, and since I really didn’t feel like drinking alcohol, I probably drank more pop here than I have in the past year, since I’m not a big pop-drinker.
- The people in India are all very curious. I was asked my name and where I’ve come from by tons of people over the 5 days we were visiting. Many of these people were beggars and/or sellers and needed the money, but many others were simply nice, friendly, curious people. I talked to tons of people while visiting, and that really helps one understand the cultural aspects of the country.
- Animals are everywhere. Throughout my time in the country I saw cows, bulls, monkeys, tons of goats, stray dogs, lizards, huge rats, and squirrels.
Back to my story.
We ate lunch at an Indian fast food restaurant in the food court, and then began shopping some more. I was able to find some nice gifts for people at home, and also surprisingly found myself a SONIC YOUTH shirt at the department store in the mall. I’m not sure if you realize the magnitude of this discovery.
Sonic Youth’s my all-time favorite band…the only band whose name I’ll wear on a t-shirt They’re not that popular in the US, so the fact that I found a shirt on the first day in India is seriously amazing, and it totally made my day! It’s a really, REALLY nice shirt too…even my friends thought it was really funny that I found that, since I wear a Sonic Youth shirt every few days on ship. All of us guys ended up buying clothes, while Dorothy, the only girl in the group, didn’t buy anything.
Anyways, we eventually found more friends of ours, and we all began wondering the mall together. We passed a cookie bakery, and the smell possessed many of us to buy some tasty treats. The smell actually reminded me of my mom’s cookies around Christmas time. Delicious! I split an assorted bag of cookies with Chad and continued to munch on them for the rest of our shopping experience.
After a nice day of shopping, we all split up again, and me, Kyle, Matt, and Mark decided to just walk around the city and see what we can find along the main road. The entire time walking, we’d get tons of looks from other people. We were the outsiders…the “other.” It’s a very odd feeling, but I thought it was neat to be the complete minority. After an hour or so, we decided to get some dinner at the Taj Hotel. We grabbed another rickshaw and forced him to take us straight to the fancy, awesome hotel.
Luckily Matt and Kyle bought some button-down shirts at the mall, because we all felt pretty underdressed. We stopped in the bathroom, changed into our nice shirts, and then walked downstairs to the nice, empty restaurant (it was still early). We ordered a meat platter with a couple of side orders. It was all expensive, yet really good. By the time we finished, it was dark, and we had to make it back to the ship because two people in the group had to make it back for SAS trips.
We arrived back around 8ish, and by my standards that’s pretty early. We’re only in India for five days…I wanted to stay out as much as possible, but unfortunately nobody else wanted to leave the confines of the ship (which was pretty weak).
India’s well-known for filmmaking. They’re film industry is actually bigger than Hollywood. They produce around 800 or so films every year. I’d heard that going to a movie theater in India was an experience. I heard that the theater’s are huge…they’re cheap…they serve you food while you watch the movie on these comfortable, cushiony seats, and the experience is like no other. I found out this night that these rumors were lies…at least in Chennai.
I left the ship and went out by myself to find the nearest movie theater. The rickshaw driver took me to the Casino, a filthy, old theater located in the shadiest part of town. I originally told him that I’d give him 50 rupees to take me there, but after dropping me off, he demanded 200 rupees.
I told him “No. I said 50,” and held out the 50 rupees, but he refused to take it. “No…200 rupees. I need money; spend gas.”
“I told you 50…only 50.” He wouldn’t budge, so after a few minutes, I threw 100 rupees on his seat and walked away to buy my ticket at the main window.
The theater only showed one film, and luckily it was starting in a little bit. I paid 50 rupees (a little over one dollar), and walked up to my balcony seat. The main theater hall was easily the biggest one I’ve even sat in. It wasn’t that nice at all (actually it was pretty dirty), but the screen was HUGE, and the balcony eventually became packed with people.
Just like in the US, they showed some advertisements before the movie started, but they consisted of old slides that were projected on the screen, just like the slides shown to us in elementary school science films. Instead of previews before the feature presentation, they showed a short film on HIV. They spoke in Hindi, so the only reason I knew it was about HIV was the poster I noticed on the back wall of the doctor’s office. India’s actually the 2nd most-infected HIV region of the world, after South Africa. Soon the movie started.
The language spoken in the film was Tamil, which was fine because I didn’t want to see an English-spoken film. I was hoping for a nice, Bollywood-like comedy/musical, but instead I got this incredibly weird movie that began like a violent Tarantino-like film where EVERYONE was getting shot, then transformed to a cheesy romantic comedy, then became a violent thriller. I left during the intermission, because I literally had no clue what was happening in the film, for it literally had 5 subplots, and it was only halfway over. The movie looked like it was made 20 years ago, but apparently it was brand new. Still, the halfway point was an hour and a half into the movie, and it was nearing 12 o’clock, so I chose to leave.
The sound in the theater was SO loud, mainly because people in the crowd constantly talked through the entire film. People were on their cell phones, while others were yelling and whistling to friends seated on the other side of the room. All of the people around me talked to themselves, and many tried to start a conversation with me too. It was certainly a cultural experience, but it also allowed me to watch the weirdest film I’ve ever seen.
Like I said before, I was in the shadiest part of town, so it was somewhat-nerve-racking finding a rickshaw driver in the dark, alleyway-like streets. Even though I don’t enjoy traveling by myself, I still think that a person learns a lot about oneself when traveling alone, so walking around the foggy streets alone, searching for a rickshaw, I guess one could call that an “educational experience.” I made it back home by 12:30 and collapsed in my bed.
I woke up early the second day in India to meet up with my friend Matt (from Lewisburg, PA) in the dining hall to discuss the plans for the day. The day ultimately consisted of six of us traveling to the small town of Mamalapullam (spelling?). We rented a cab driver for the day, and visited this village where we explored caves, unexpectedly visited a stone carving school, toured both the Shore Temple and the Five Pillars structure (both of which are over 1000 years old), and also had time to talk to some Indian children during their school recess. After visiting these places, Matt and I ate at this small village restaurant while Jess, Steph, Matt, and Kara explored the shops around the area.
(me exploring the temple caves)
We then took the hour-long cab drive back to the safe confines of the ship near the city. On our way home, our driver almost ran over a pack of goats crossing the street.
Earlier in the day, a few of us were wondering what would happen if someone hit a cow while driving. We almost found out when a huge herd of cows charged across the road, and narrowly missed hitting our van.
(Hanging out while visiting the Five Pillars)
It was early evening, but that was ok, because I had to start packing for my village home stay trip I booked through SAS. We were leaving at 10 o’clock to catch a sleeper train at the train station, so I had to scurry along and make sure I wasn’t forgetting anything.
In my next entry I’ll talk about all of my home stay adventures (it was unbelievable), as well as the adventures of the last day. Hopefully I’ll be able to post again before Malaysia, but we’ll see…no promises folks.
I’m in the computer lab right now. A bunch of students totally decked out in traditional India garb just walked by. Granted there are a FEW white kids on the ship that can pull off Indian clothing, as a whole though, the clothing honestly looks incredibly ridiculous on most of these students (I’m not talking about a simple shirt…I’m talking about the whole shebang). Seriously if I were Indian, I’d be severely offended. If I were home and saw white kids walking down the street in some of these clothes, I’d just laugh. The clothes are BEAUTIFUL, but the students are seriously just kidding themselves.
Now this girl won’t get her hand off the back of my chair. She's moving it around as if I'm not really sitting here. She’s watching her friend next to me surf the internet, and she’s taken a cue from India about personal space, except she has no excuse. She’s REALLY loud too. That’s my cue to go down to bed.
To be continued…
P.S. – I’ve been kind of disappointed in the quality of photos I’ve been taking, BUT I have at least 6-7 hours of video, and that doesn’t include most of Brazil (in which I couldn’t bring my video camera out) or the Bahamas. A lot of the video looks pretty decent too. We still have Malaysia, Vietnam, Hong Kong, China, Japan, Hawaii, and San Diego, and I plan on taping as much as possible. I’ll probably edit all of my footage together as soon as I get home, but until then, I’m not planning on watching anything.