I’ve traveled by many modes of transportation on this trip so far: a ship (obviously), smaller boats (lifeboats, water taxis, river boats), cars, motorcycles (thanks to Vietnam), a train, rickshaws, bicycle rickshaws, kayaks, subway, giant elevators, airplanes, buses…and now…I can add ‘elephant’ to the list. That’s right.
The Elephant Monologues

Wednesday morning, our 3rd day in Vietnam, James, Ben, and I boarded a plane that took us to Buon Ma Thout. This is a small town in the middle of the country…in the middle of nowhere. The reason we chose this town to fly to was because it was only an hour away from Yok Don National Park: the national park in Vietnam where one can ride elephants. At the beginning of this trip, I made a couple of goals for myself. One minor, yet more fun goal was to ride an elephant…cross that sucker off the list. Unfortunately another goal was to see a soccer game, but you can’t win them all!
Anyways, we arrive at the airport in Buon Ma Thout after an hour plane ride from Saigon. We got swarmed by taxi drivers, but found a guy who spoke somewhat decent English. He drove us to the park office and meet with a park official in town. After a somewhat useless chat with this woman, our driver then drove us out to the actual park (about an hour away). The park was pretty rundown…kinda like I was hoping my safari would be in Africa. The guy in charge told us that we should leave, find something to eat, and then come back, because the elephant was still “crossing the river.”
We visited this very dirty café/restaurant on the side of the road. They didn’t even have menus; it literally looked like somebody converted their large front porch area into a dining area. We told the woman that we wanted “rice, egg, and chicken.” We did get rice, egg, and chicken, and surprisingly, it was decent…and surprisingly, I didn’t get insane amounts of diarrhea from it (thanks Pepto Bismal!).
We then returned to the park, just as the elephant was coming in from its river trek. It wasn’t a HUGE elephant, but it was big, and plenty big enough to hold the three of us on its back. As weird as it sounds, this was seriously an amazing experience. We rode Tiger (we named it Tiger, because we were in Vietnam and Tiger’s the official beer of the country, for the logo’s everywhere) for one hour around the woods, up and down steep hills, and across a river twice. The river was so deep that Tiger had to hold its trunk above the water in order to breath while trekking across. Tiger also did a lot of eating throughout the journey; he also did a lot of farting. Elephant farts literally sound like a lion roaring. I got most of the highlights on video, but all in all it was a completely rad experience.
Afterwards, we asked our driver if there was anything else to see around the area, because we had a few hours to kill until we had to catch our flight back to Saigon. We stopped at a coffee plantation. I forgot to mention that Buon Ma Thout is the area where they grow all of the Vietnamese coffee. This farm was owned by a friend of our driver, and this guy and his wife were hilarious. As soon as he saw James and I holding cameras, he brought us into his house, sat us down in his living room (keep in mind that this was a really old farm, so I use the term “living room” very loosely), and brought out all of his cameras and photos to show us. He was a lot of fun.
When we arrived back in the town, our driver took us to the shop that sells the actual coffee that we saw on the farm. The woman sat us down and made us a few cups of coffee and tea for free. This was an amazing strategy, because the coffee was so good that all three of us bought some beans.
We still had a few hours to waste, because our flight wasn’t until 8:10, so our driver took us to this really nice restaurant in the town. They must not have been used to white people visiting, because the whole staff was obsessed with us. Every time I took a drink of soda, the waiter would come over and pour more in my glass. It got to the point where I would wait until he wasn’t looking and then take a drink. Unfortunately the Tiger girl (the girl dressed in a scantily clad Tiger outfit) usually filled in for the waiter when he wasn’t looking, so my drinking strategy didn’t always work.
The menu to this place was insane. There was even a “Special Live Forest Animal” section that included snake, weasel, rabbit, and other foresty creatures. I was wondering how they prepared the animals in this section of the menu. Like did they own a petting zoo in the back of the restaurant, or did they just have the cook go outside, find a random weasel, club it, throw it in a burlap sack, then cook it to our meat-eating pleasures. I don’t know. All I do know is that I originally ordered rabbit leg (I wanted to try something weird, and the “Cobra stew” was alittle too out of my league). I ordered the dish, but then our driver shook his head “no.” “Don’t order that,” he said. I’m sure his warning benefited me in the long run. I had beef instead.
Our driver was an interesting guy. At some points he spoke English really well, but then 10 minutes later he’d act like he had no clue what we were talking about. He did teach us some useful Vietnamese phrases and such though and showed us pictures of his wife and talked about how he used to be a school teacher. Really nice guy. We ended up giving him over 400 dong for his services (dong’s obviously the Vietnamese currency, in case you didn’t know).
We made it back to the airport almost two hours ahead of schedule. The Buon Ma Thout airport consisted of two rooms: the room where one purchases tickets, and the waiting room. The small plane takes off in the parking lot outside the airport. At least they were punctual, because we ended up getting back to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) ahead of schedule.
Clothes Shopping/The Zoo
On our first day, as soon as we set foot in Saigon (I’m going to refer to the city as Saigon, rather than Ho Chi Minh City, since that’s what most people refer to it as), four of us began searching for a tailor that’ll make suits for a reasonable price. Everything’s pretty cheap in Vietnam; this includes nice suits, so many Semester at Sea people take this opportunity to have suits tailored to their needs
. In the end, we found a store owned by this woman. Her husband makes suits, and she offered us the best price. I planned on getting two nice suits made. The woman’s husband measured us all (very thorough, of course), and we planned on picking them up on the fourth day of our visit (Thursday).
On Thursday, Kyle, Ben, and James, and I stopped in at noon, but we were shooed away by the woman, because the suits apparently weren’t going to be ready until 5 pm. We had to kill some time, and we had already gone shopping and I had already bought my Japanese Rail Pass (all of the goals for the day). About half of the group went to visit the War Remnants Museum, while Kyle, Eric, and me visited the Saigon zoo!!!!!! I know, it sounds very lame, BUT by the 4th day, we were running out of stuff to do in the actual city that didn’t consist of wondering aimlessly and shopping.
Our zoo visit was the weirdest time I’ve had in a long time. First of all, all of the animals were insane. Maybe the zoo was too close to the roads, and the car exhaust messed with the animals brains. Maybe the workers fed them other animals. They were all so violent . The animals liked to fight with each other. I got some awesome footage of bears fighting, crocodiles attacking each other, elephants dancing (yes, I said dancing), a lion pacing back and forth for a few minutes, and a chimpanzee who was obsessed with us and spit at Kyle a number of times. What was cool about the zoo was the fact that we were so close to the animals. Seriously, I could have reached out and pet an ostrich or fed an elephant or stepped on a crocodile. The tourist population was limited to the three of us though. Seriously, there was hardly anybody in the deserted zoo, which also added a certain creepiness to the situation.
The only other group people that we saw were some school children. We assumed they were on a field trip, but began to think differently when we heard the marching snare drums. We walked near the main entrance of the zoo and encountered the group of school children standing in a large circle. Two students were holding flags: one was a Vietnamese flag, the other some random red flag. They were marching slowly to the beat of the drums, as other children were screaming out random sentences in Vietnamese. This weird Communist-esque exercise freaked the hell of out us. I seriously thought that I was going to get shot in the head for videotaping this activity. So that’s what kids do when they visit zoos in Vietnam.
At 5 pm, Eric and I made it back to the woman’s shop. I was the first one there, and her husband had just delivered the suits, so I got to try mine on first. To my honest surprise, they both fit perfectly! I tried them on in the middle of the store, and though it felt rather odd as the old man was trying to help me try my pants on, it was hilarious at the same time.
It reminded me of something that happened on the 2nd day. I was in Ben Thien Market, looking for some stuff to buy. This is a giant indoor market that sells everything from clothes to crafts to horribly smelling food (people walked around with huge buckets of vinegar with odd-looking chunks and bits of food floating on the top) to electronics to shoes to whatever. I thought that the guys selling stuff in India and Malaysia were bad, but these women in the market were incredibly annoying.
I’d be walking down the shallow passageway between booths, and a woman would jump out, dangling a shirt in front of me. I’d dodge her, but then there’d be two other women behind her waving stupid-looking polo shirts in my face. After ignoring them, another lady would reach out her arms in front of me and try to pull me into her booth. I’d say “no” very sternly (I got really good at this), but then she’d smack me in the arm and mutter some insulting Vietnamese phrase. This sort of activity would continue during my entire time shopping in Vietnam. If one makes eye contact with ANY item someone is selling, the seller will run towards you and offer to show you more and give you “best price…best price just for you!” In the other countries, I thought these shenanigans were rather funny and humorous, but in Vietnam it began to get slightly annoying. This is coming from a guy who gets ticked off even when someone in Best Buy offers me an Entertainment Weekly with my purchase. Seriously, just leave me alone people! At the same time, I used this to my advantage, for whenever I was buying something, if the seller didn’t match the price I wanted, I’d just walk away. One minute later the seller would find me, then offer to sell me the item at my price. Works every time!
Let’s get back to the story at hand. I found a really nice pair of pants in this indoor market that I wanted to buy, and I got the lady to sell me that pair and a nice pair of jeans, both for $18 (by the way, almost everybody in Vietnam takes US $1 bills. It’s pretty convenient). The lady looked at my waist and told me that I was a specific size, but I didn’t believe her because the size she was telling me was much bigger than my size in America. Even in India I bought a pair of size 30 pants and they fit the same as at home, but I honestly didn’t believe this lady and asked if there was anywhere in the market that I could try on the pants. She pointed to the center of her booth. You only live once. I tried on the pants in public, and they both fit perfectly! Good job lady! I love my new pants!
Back to the suits (sorry---I know I’m jumping around a lot, but don’t feel like telling stories in order today). My suits fit perfectly, as did everyone else’s. The lady selling them to us was hilarious. On the first day when I was trying to bargain her price down, she got ticked off at how cheap I was asking, and pulled on my ear after smacking me in the shoulder. When we were picking up our suits, the entire time she was trying to get us to buy these kimonos for 10 bucks. When we’d say “no,” she’d smack us on the shoulder. Fun times.
War Remnants Museum
On the second day in Vietnam, two of us visited the War Remnants Museum, a 30 minute walk from where our bus shuttle dropped us off. It was originally called the Museum of American War Atrocities and War Crimes…the original title suited the museum better.
The pictures and exhibits featured in this museum were incredibly startling and very sick: countless dismembered bodies, burnt corpses, photos of innocent civilians getting shot in the head, and other startling photographs filled the walls, while a display with a guillotine that was used to chop prisoners heads off and several prison chambers occupied the outside.
War is not pretty, especially when our own country is causing it. It felt rather odd to be an American while walking around this museum. The effects of the war can still be seen on the streets of Vietnam today. I passed many civilians and beggars who were disfigured due to Agent Orange outbreaks during the war, and I walked past a few people whose faces looked like they were melting off their skulls–this was due to napalm attacks. Pretty intense stuff, but oddly enough, most Vietnamese like Americans. I also learned that in Vietnamese schools, when children learn about the war, they learn that most Americans actually protested and totally opposed the war. Rather than it being the PEOPLE who killed many innocent civilians throughout their country, they learned that it was the GOVERNMENT that was responsible. This, of course, is what the kids learn while they’re actually in school and not out at the local zoos marching around.
So yeah, I’m hoping that journalists and others continue to take pictures and video while in Iraq, because I’m thinking that we’ll have another atrocity museum built in a few years.
I’ve honestly found that most people around the world DO like Americans. Seriously. For example, somebody in Malaysia told me, “I LOVE Americans. Good People! Just Hate Bush.” That’s honestly the general consensus everywhere we go.
Mekong Delta
Remember watching Martin Sheen sailing down the river in Apocalypse Now? Well the river that was featured in the movie was based on the Mekong River, the predominant river in Vietnam. Our ship had already sailed down the Saigon River in order to make it into Saigon, but this trip was different.
We booked the trip through a tour agency we found downtown. The 2-hour van ride to the river was monotonous though…three of us were scrunched up in the very last bench seat in a van with virtually NO legroom. The trip itself proved to be much more entertaining.
We sailed down the river in small little passenger boats, ate traditional Vietnamese food (rice, spring rolls, fruit, banana wine, honey coffee, etc.) in this jungle-pavilion area, took a tour of the jungle while sitting in these little row boats with our awesome rice hats on, and did some other crazy stuff along the way. All in all, it was a pretty incredible day that only cost us a mere $7.
The Food and the Traffic
While writing about India, I made an overly big deal about crossing the street in downtown traffic. Though it was very difficult in India and Malaysia, neither country compared to the traffic in Vietnam. It was SO MUCH FUN to cross the street! We get a packet before each country that has general information that we all need to know before leaving; this is what the packet says about crossing the street:
“Cross-walks do not exist in Vietnam, so in order to cross a busy street in Vietnam all one has to do is step out into oncoming traffic…the motos and buses will maneuver around you until you have reached the other side. Do not run as they will not be able to gage your movement; just keep a steady pace.”
This was so true. For five days I literally walked straight out into busy oncoming traffic, and the drivers would just drive around me. 90% of the vehicles on the road were motorcycles, and at least once or twice the handlebars of a motorcycle hit my backpack…that’s how close they were. Some close calls here and there, but oddly enough the only time I made contact with a motorcycle was when I ran into some lady’s parked motorcycle while walking off the sidewalk. I know…I’m an idiot.
The other thing I’m going to talk about is food. Now I’m not a huge eater (ask anybody I know at home…I only eat when I’m hungry), but I’ve been talking a lot in these entries about food. Why? Well I’ve discovered on this trip that there are two things that make a country unique (especially most third world countries), and these are the food and the traffic patterns. Seriously.
With that being said, the food in Vietnam was surprisingly good. I wasn’t sure if I was going to like the traditional cuisine, but it all satisfied my taste buds like no other. In Malaysia I felt like eating mostly American food, but in this country, I ate all local cuisine (even when it looked a bit odd).
There’s a lot more I can say about Vietnam. If anyone has any questions or wants to know about anything else I did while in the country, definitely let me know. This country, like India and South Africa, is very difficult to write about, because I saw and experienced so much stuff, and it’s all often impossible to put into words. SOOOOO many details that aren’t in this blog, but yeah, I can’t make everybody happy.
I’m REALLY excited about China, but can’t really express in words how excited I am for Japan. I’ve seriously waited to visit Japan for a long time, and now, finally, I’ll be able to roam the crazy streets of Tokyo or relax near an incredible temple in Kyoto or maybe, just maybe, catch a football game or a baseball game, or at least find a nice record store with some underground Japanese music. Hopefully. I CAN’T WAIT!!!
P.S. – I bought WAY too much stuff in Vietnam, but got a lot for my buck. SOO many DVDs!!!!